How to Install The Bayview Roofing Collection

Installation Guide - Bayview Roofing Collection Shake, Diamond, Slate


Thank you for purchasing another BUCHNER product. These shingles will be the last roofing shingles you will need for 50 years.

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We recommend hiring a professional, experienced roofing installer to perform this installation. Following these installation instructions should ensure a leak-free installation. Failure to follow these instructions may void the product warranty. Buchner Manufacturing Inc offers a limited 50-year warranty limited to the cost of replacement products it manufactures (Go to to view the warranty). The warranty is valid only after the original owner of the property signs and mails the warranty to Buchner Mfg within 30 days of the installation being completed for it to be registered.
Buchner Manufacturing is not responsible for any other costs including those associated with faulty workmanship in the installation or for not complying with the building code. 
It is your responsibility to consult, understand, and adhere to local building and safety codes.

Roof Pitch - Bayview Aluminum Shingles should only be installed on slopes of 4/12 or greater.
Aluminum Shingles - Our shingles are made from .022 thick aluminum, painted with DURACOAT coating for
steep slope roofs. Do not mix with steel, lead or copper components.
Storage - All materials purchased from Buchner Mfg must be stored in a dry, ventilated area protected from moisture and chemicals. It is recommended to install our shingles as soon as possible after purchase.
Work Safely - Make sure you wear the appropriate safety equipment to prevent a fall.
Footwear - Metal roofs can be slippery. Wear soft-soled shoes or foam rubber overshoes that can grip the surface. When stepping on the metal shingles place your foot in the center of the shingles, not on the interlocking edges.

*Helpful Tip - Before stepping on the roof brush off any debris that has adhered to the bottom of your footwear. 

Product Testing 

CCMC Evaluation 13631-R

Buchner Bayview Aluminum Shake Shingles have been tested for CCMC evaluation and comply with the National Building Code for metal roofing systems.

The Shake Shingles were tested for material properties including thickness, coating quality, impact resistance, film adhesion, and more. Wind uplift testing was done using negative pressure wind loading and a water infiltration test.

Go to for more paint spec information.

Check the Deck

Bayview Aluminum Shingles can be installed on any wood-based panels used for roof sheathing conforming to your local building code. Inspect the deck for any damaged or uneven spots and make repairs. Pressure-treated lumber is not recommended as a solid backing

Preparing the Deck

Installing Shingles over New Solid Deck - The entire roof surface needs to be covered with a waterproof membrane/underlayment. We recommend a quality, self-adhesive roofing membranes such as ©RESISTO LASTOBOND PRO HT-N or a synthetic underlayment such as ©RESISTO PLUS. It is critical to provide proper ventilation to evaporate any moisture beneath the shingle and the attic. We recommend venting along the ridge.

Installing Shingles Over Existing Asphalt Shingles - Bayview Aluminum Shingles can be installed over one layer of existing asphalt shingles. Check with your local codes if this type of installation is allowed. 

  • Any curled, buckled, or damaged shingles should be replaced or de-tabbed.

  • An even surface is needed to support the Bayview Shingles.

  • Cut back the existing shingles flush with the roof edge on all sides of the roof.

  • Remove all eaves and gable flashings.

  • Remove all hip and ridge cap materials.

  • Inspect the roof surface and the underside via the attic (if possible) for damage or rot and repair as required.

  • Once all damaged areas are replaced lay a new waterproof membrane over the asphalt shingles. We recommend ©RESISTO PLUS.

  • Use stainless steel screws long enough to penetrate the wood sheathing at least 1/2”

Strong Winds - In areas where there are strong winds (exceeding 100 km per hour) ensure fasteners are inserted in ALL SCREW HOLES for ALL shingles. For the eave starter insert fasteners on the fascia side as well as the deck.

Fasteners - Always use Stainless Steel screws long enough to penetrate the deck a minimum of 1/2"

Getting Ready

Recommended tools for installation of Bayview Aluminum Shingles:

  • Metal Snips

  • Chalk Line

  • Small Square

  • Hammer

  • Fall Arrest equipment

  • Cordless Drill and drive bits - Knife and extra blades

  • Hand Seamer / Folding Tool - Caulking Gun

  • Tape Measure

  • Ladder

  • Roof Jacks / Johnny Jack

  • Portable Brake

Flashings and Accessories

For roof penetrations such as chimneys, vent stacks, and pipe vents Buchner sells pipe boots and other accessories to seal the roof penetrations. Many penetrations will require onsite fabrication of transition flashings using our embossed flat-stock with FLUROPON© 1 coating. Not using this material means the flashing colour will fade long before the colour on the shingles.

You can order custom flashings from Buchner Mfg. Call 1-800-461-6455 and one of our Sales Staff will assist with the details.
Download PDF for Trim Specifications

STEP 1: Eave Starter Installation 

Insert the eave starter between the waterproof membrane and the wood deck. Use #10 x 1” stainless steel screws and insert them on the center every 16” or closer in high wind areas along the length of the eave starter (Diagram 1.1). If installing over asphalt shingles use a screw length which will penetrate the deck a min 1/2”. If your area is subject to high winds add screws along the leg of the eave starter fastening into the fascia board. Buchner can custom fabricate an eave starter to fit any roof eave. Keep the eave starter straight as the shingle locks onto it in the first row.

Eave starter trim comes in 9’ 10” lengths which means there will be points of overlap. Notch the edge bend on the eave starter leg about 1”. Now you can slide the notched eave starter over the top of the secured piece. Press the 2 pieces together and insert your fasteners. (Diagram 1.2). NOTE - never install a fastener through the joint. It should be placed at least 2” from the joint.

STEP 2: Rake Edge

The self-adhesive waterproof membrane should be laid down under the rake edge. Similar to the eave starter, ensure that the rake edge is flush with the rake surface. The rake J is laid on top of the rake edge. Fasteners are installed through both trims every 16” on the center (Diagram 2.1). The lower end of the rake edge and rake J should be flush with the eave starter.

To join sections of the rake edge and rake J (Diagram 2.2) notch the bottom edge of the lower rake edge piece. Slide the upper rake edge over the lower piece. Notch the upper J trim, slide into the lower J trim, and insert a fastener. NOTE fasteners should not be inserted at the joint. Start at least 2” away from the joint. No need to apply caulking.

An alternative method for rake trim is to use the eaves starter on gables. Fasten the eaves starter on top of the underlayment with stainless steel screws every 16”. Each shingle at the gable will need to be folded approximately 3/4” down and over the eaves starter.

STEP 3: Valley Flashing 

The valley flashing will be installed along the centerline of the roof valley. To ensure the valley runs straight, measure 5 3/4” from the valley center at the eave and top of the valley. Run a chalk line between these points and snap a line for your guide (Diagram 3.1). Begin by installing from the eave. The first section of valley flashing will be positioned to overlap the eave starter. Starting 16” up from the eave fasten clips every 16” along both sides of the valley flashing with stainless steel screws.

To connect the lower end of the next section of valley flashing notchback the locks on both sides by 6”, then cut each corner on a diagonal to the notch. Join the two sections together making sure the upper section overlaps the bottom section (Diagram 3.2).

STEP 4: Endwall Flashing
There may be sections where you need to install additional flashing to provide a waterproof seal where the end of the shingles and a wall begins.

Sidewall Flashing (diagram 4.1) The waterproof membrane should run from the roof up the wall at least 3”. The vertical surface of the basic flashing and sidewall flashing is usually behind the wall covering. A fastener is inserted through the vertical section into the wall. The shingle lays on top of the basic flashing where water can be guided off the roof. Where the sidewall flashing is affixed to a brick surface the top of the flashing needs to be caulked. Buchner provides flashing’s in 10 ft lengths which minimize the number of joints. When joining the flashing place the upper section of trim over the lower to allow water to run over the joint.

STEP 5: Installing the Shake and Diamond Shingles 

We recommend using the Johnny Jack Roof bracket to support your staging boards as you move up the roof. These brackets easily hook over the shingles. You can begin installing from either the right or the left. The first course of shingles locks into the eave starter. Subsequent courses of shingles lock into place by sliding the bottom hook of each shingle into the screw strip of the previous course. The generous width of the locks on Bayview shingles allows alignment of the course to ensure symmetry. (Diagram 5.1). Insert fasteners in ALL screw holes. The inner lock of each shingle slides into the Z lock of the adjacent shingle and then pushes the shingle up the roof so the bottom hook snaps into the screw strip.

Each course of shingles should be offset from the previous course (diagram 5.2). To ensure visually appealing alignment position one shingle so it is symmetrically offset at the center notch of the screw strip. Other shingles can be snapped in from there. Follow the same pattern for each course of shingles.

STEP 5: Installing the Slate Shingles 

Bayview Slate Shingles are installed from left to right. The first course of shingles locks onto the eaves starter. Subsequent courses of shingles lock into place by sliding the bottom hook of each shingle into the top lock of the previous course. The generous width of the locks on the Slate shingle allows alignment of the course to ensure symmetry. Insert one stainless steel screw in the screw tab on the right end of the shingle and hook one shingle clip in the center of the panel and fasten with a stainless steel screw. (Diagram 5.3) Install the next shingle by hooking the left side lock onto the right side lock of the previous shingle and then slide the shingle upwards to lock into the previous row.

Each course of shingles should be offset from the previous course using the offset mark in the top lock of the shingle. (Diagram 5.4) Other shingles can be locked in from there. Follow the same pattern for each course of shingles.

STEP 5: Installing the Shingles 

Install with Rake Edge and J at gable - When the rake edge and rake J are used at a gable end each shingle that is inserted in the J needs to have the lower lock notched back 3/4” from the edge of the shingle. After you have cut the shingle to length and made the notch insert the shingle in the rake J and lock the shingle in place. Screw the shingle with Stainless Steel screws in the provided holes.

Install with Eaves Starter at gable - An alternative to using rake edge and rake J is to install eaves starter at the gable. (Diagram 5.6) Each shingle is folded over the eave starter. Trim the shingle to the required length adding approx 1” to allow the fold. Cut back the top and bottom lock 1”. Use a folding tool to fold the 1” tab on the shingle down 90° to hook the eaves starter. Place the shingle to hook the eaves starter at the side and slide the shingle up to lock the lower lock on the previous row. You may need to gently tap the shingle to fully lock on both edges. Fasten with Stainless Steel screws. Folding the tab over and around the eave starter can be completed by hand.

Install shingles at the valley - Where there is a valley we recommend starting from the valley and moving towards the rake edge when installing the Shake and Diamond Shingle. Position a full shingle on the next course and offset it to match the existing pattern. Now place a shingle over the valley to determine the angle of the cut. Leave 3/4” - 1” to fold under which allows you to lock into the valley clip. If you find the shingle section that is to be locked into the valley is too narrow you can pop rivet the shorter piece to the adjacent shingle, then install it as one unit.

Be sure the shingle at the valley is fully locked onto the previous row to keep the row of shingles straight. When installing Slate, the shingles are installed left to right only.

Helpful Tip Before fastening the shingle at the valley, lock in the shingle next to it to align the vertical joint and fasten the two shingles after they are straight. The shingle at the valley may need to be gently tapped upwards to fully lock the shingle in place.

STEP 6: Hip and Ridge Installation

A ridge cap is needed when you reach the roof ridge. Buchner supplies ridge cap starter in 10 ft lengths or you can bend one from Buchner flat-stock if you have a brake. ridge cap starter is recommended to aid in keeping the line of ridge cap straight and provide additional water protection. If venting is required Buchner recommends QUARRIX Ridge Roll. Sealant should be used under the ridge vent and fasten ridge caps with screws long enough to penetrate the wood structure.

Shingles will be installed up to the roof ridge. Trim back the shingle as required. Lay down the QUARRIX Ridge Roll with sealant, then the ridge cap starter. The ridge cap is placed over the top and two stainless steel fasteners are inserted into the two screw holes provided (diagram 6.2). The next ridge cap simply locks into the previous cap. The ridge cap is interlocked moving in the direction of the prevailing wind.

To install the ridge cap on a hip first fasten the ridge cap starter over the shingles and fasten it with stainless steel screws. Use a chalk line to keep the starter straight. A 1/2”x1” foam tape can be adhered to the underside of the ridge cap starter to provide an additional seal at the hip.

Start at the eaves with the first ridge cap and cut the bottom of it to match the eaves starter leaving 3/4” to fold over the eave starter. Hook the ridge cap over the eaves starter and align the center of the cap with the ridge cap starter. Fasten with 2 stainless screws long enough to penetrate the wood sheathing. The next ridge cap will hook onto the previous cap and be fastened with 2 stainless steel screws.

STEP 7: Flashings and Accessories

Flexible Pipe Flashings - If a plumbing stack or hydro mast is protruding through the roof it can be flashed with a flexible flashing. There are different sizes available and a style that can be split to be used on a pipe that won’t allow the flashing to be slid down from the top such as a hydro mast. when the split style of flashing is in place use the included clips to rejoin. Cut the shingles as close to the pipe as possible and install the flashing as per the manufacturer's instructions.

Snow Brake on Shake and Diamond ShinglesSnow brakes are to be installed after the shingles are installed on the roof. Place the snow brakes with even spacing over the side laps of the shingle below and insert the flange of the snow brake under the lower edge of the shingle and slide upwards. Insert stainless steel screws with rubber washers into the raised dimples and screw them into the roof. Be sure the screws are long enough to penetrate the wood structure below.

The bottom row of snow brakes should be installed above the outside wall of a heated area of the building or higher on the roof. 2 rows of snow brakes installed on adjacent rows of shingles as pictured can be used to provide support to the snowpack on the roof. If the amount of snow expected requires more support additional rows of snow stops can be installed with approximately 8-10 ft between the rows.

Download PDF for Full Bayview Guide